Solid 18 Karat Yellow Gold Demi Hunter Guilloche Enamel Bezel Cover Top.
$1,637.00
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DetailsWhat an extraordinary watch I have. Read carefully because I doubt whether you have ever seen one or will ever see one again.
I have a first that I have ever seen. Solid 18 karat yellow gold Trench Watch with rare light rose colored Guilloche enameled bezel! This is also referred as the chapter ring. The enamel numbers are in blue! What is Guilloche. It is the ornamental skill set that involves engraving metal with repetitive linear patterns, which are then carefully covered with translucent enamel. This technique has high labor intensity that often will result in mesmerizing visual effects, particularly on gold.
On the 14th April 1892 the Swiss watch company Louis Brandt & Frere registered the name ‘Helvetia’ as one of the brand names for their watches. Two years later in 1894 they also registered the name ‘Omega’ and applied it to a new range of high quality lever movement pocket watches they had developed using cutting edge manufacturing technology.
In the years since 1895 La Générale had begun to make better quality lever movement watches, sold mainly under the Helvetia name, and in 1906 they built a new factory in Bienne with offices and workrooms for 104 workers. Here they developed a 13 ligne movement that was used in smaller fob watches and then in their first wristwatches around 1907. They also registered brand names in their own right such as General in 1902, Adonis in 1905 and Orta in 1911.
This was the time La Générale also began to use the English version of their company name, General Watch Co, prominently in their advertising and push the brand name Helvetia to the fore. Though they did occasionally manufacture watches under some of their other brand names such as General or Post almost all the watches they produced from the late 1920s bear the name Helvetia.
In 1932 they registered a design for a watch with a date window at 12 o’clock and this resulted in the world’s first ‘Big Date’ watch using the Helvetia calibre 75 movement, they also patented a ’stop seconds’ chronograph in 1940 but perhaps the reason that the Helvetia brand is most widely known today is for their pilots’ watches. The General Watch Co first introduced their version of the ‘1928 pattern’ pilots’ watch in 1932 and introduced their famous spinning propeller logo in January 1933 making thousands of these watches up to 1945.
La Générale was not the original name of the Omega Watch Company or their predecessor Louis Brandt & Frere (despite what Wikipedia says), the company was previously called Louis Brandt & Fils. I think the confusion comes from early La Générale watches being marked 'Successeur de Louis Brandt & Frere' which, of course, means following on from not preceding. Omega was never a La Générale brand either but the Helvetia brand name was registered originally by Louis Brandt & Frere. The two companies, Louis Brandt & Frere and La Générale, though always separate, were both owned by the Brandt brothers.
The General Watch Co. formed in 1895 was not the General Watch Co. that was part of AUSAG from 1972, they were two completely different companies. The AUSAG General Watch Co was originally registered as the General Watch Holding Co. Therefore Helvetia/La Générale/General Watch Co was never part of AUSAG. 1970s watches marked General Watch Co are not made by Helvetia, which was part of SGT by this time, but by the General Watch Co that was part of AUSAG. Not confusing at all!
What is this watch? It is a Demi Hunter (AKA Half Hunter) that is solid 18 karat gold. The case was manufactured in solid 18 karat yellow gold.
This watch has gone through a bit of restoration. I had the case solid gold case hinge tube repaired.
It has worn over the years and the case top hinge was worn, I repaired it. it now opens like it should.
I had the entire case gently hand polished to bring out that beautiful luster that 18 karat yellow gold can only display.
The dial was gently cleaned to take the years of wear off. Notice the 24 hour inner circle on the dial
The watch has two crystals, one for the flip top bezel and the other for the inside case. I love that design feature.
The watch runs very well. The movement is a piece of art; look at the beautiful detailing on the case and blued steel screws, a subtle touch indicative of a higher caliber movement.
Use the pictures as part of the description. This is one rare wristwatch. I have never seen another like it in solid 18 karat yellow gold
The watch was obtained from the UK approximately 5 years ago. The previous owner had indicated that it had been recently service. That puts the timeline for its last service at approximately 6-7 years ago. I had the movement torn down and serviced.
This is a non-traditional “Pin Set” Trench Watch. There is a small pin you depress at approximately 4 o’clock on the case edge. This disengages the movement to be set, turn the crown while continuing to depress the release button and set the hands where you want them. Then let go of the button and your done.
The case is approximately 31-32MM wide, traditional sizing for a early Trench Watch.
How about a little history lesson on British hallmarks, these hallmarks can reveal a lot about a watch
History about Trench Watches
What is a “Trench Watch” ?
They were created using 3/0 and 0 size pocket watch movements and installing into watch cases that were meant to worn on the wrist. The watch movement companies would send their movements to independent jewelers, who in turn would select the cases (as described below) to house the movement.
So the ordering process might go like this. A customer walks in to a jeweler, with the help of the jeweler, the customer selects a 15 jeweled movement, then they go on to the case selection. The jeweler may recommend a higher end case manufactures like Depollier, and then it is the style of case as many manufactures had several different styles. Once a complete selection was made, the jeweler put it together and delivered the watch. That is how many Trench Watches (wrist watches) were born in the early 1900's.
The movements often came from women pocket watches because the wrist watch as we know was just being discovered. It is not uncommon to see various movements used in different cases, with various years. Remember the wrist watch was just being developed.
They often have some of the following characteristics:
Fixed or Wire Lug: No traditional spring bar attachment as found in today’s watches.
Case Material: Solid Gold / Sterling Silver (925) / Silverode or Gold Filled were used. (This case lid snaps snug on the case. This is important to note as many cases were badly damaged by their owners over the past 100 years. This watch case has been taken care of throughout its 100 years, it is in remarkable shape)
*For more practical purposes, a special alloy was developed which went by several different names, such as, "Silveroid, Silverore, Silverode or Silverine. "Silveroid" appears to have become the standard name for this metal that consisted of 45% nickel, 54% copper and 1% manganese. This metal was fairly hard wearing and could withstand the rigors of everyday use, for instance on the Railroads.
Case Manufactures: There were many case manufacturers that made cases for Trench Watches. Some of the more well know were: Dennison (English Manufacturer) Illinois (not affiliated with the Illinois Watch Company) J Depollier and Sons, Wadsworth, Fahys, Philadelphia, Fortune and many more
WW1 was 1914 to 1918, that is the time frame of many Trench Watches.
One of my favorite trench watch cases from WWI were made by J. Depollier & Son and the English case maker Dennision.. These cases had high quality manufacturing details that made them some of the best of their day Dennison cases were available in Nickel, Sterling Silver, 14k Solid Gold, 18k Solid Gold.
This movement was made in the early 1900s. This is the rare highly sought after the front cover has a port hole to read the time! This design was more expensive to manufacturer; it did a better job of keeping the elements out of the watch. This was a more expensive design feature than many cases of that time period.
The Solid 18 karat Yellow Gold case is an average Trench Watch case relative to many others. It measures as follows:
33MM wide, without the crown, 39MM with the beautiful pumpkin crown
The hinges on this watch have NOT been abused or stretched. So often these hinges get so badly beat up and abused over the years. These are in remarkable shape.
The case lugs are healthy and not bent, another indicator of being taken care of.
The watch band is a brand new black “leather” with a white top stitch. It is 22MM and opened ended with a stainless steel tang buckle.
The watch keeps beautiful time. Please know I received these several years ago when the owner in the UK had indicated that it had been service. It runs beautifully as of this listing. Please assume a service may be in the near future. I can provide one if you want, it takes 2-3 weeks and I would charge you what my watch maker charges me!
Not much information is available about his movement. I have looked in several places and I am still doing some research. I will update when I find more data out
This watch originated from the UK, that is where I acquired it. I like to offer some unusual timepieces and think this one qualifies. This about his for a moment.
Please use the pictures as part of the description, ask as many questions as you would like. I am happy to send more pictures of add clarity that you made need. I ship every Wednesday, please keep that in mind when and if you make a purchase.
As you can tell from some of my reviews, I am invested in my customers; you are much more than a transaction.
For accuracy I pony out 11 o'clock on the edge of the enameled bezel and tiny scratch mark in the enamel -
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